Floor sanding Professionals
Floor restoration/refurbishment projects have always received bad press in the past. With horror stories of dusting down furniture and curtains for days. Or noise so loud neighbors complained with children crying. How about, “It took longer than having a new floor put in” Or even the smells from the products “made me ill”….These stories may have had claim years ago. In our generation we perform a wooden floor restoration project from start to finish without a single hassle caused to the client. Perhaps other than a few cups of coffee for the men.
Absolutely dust free, With our machines floor sanding does not produce any dust. please look at our videos page for examples where you can see n dust is being created.
No matter how well a floor is installed, cracks and splits will inevitably happen; nature of the beast with wooden floors!
When this happens it’s so important that the repair is not only blended with the floor and cosmetically appealing but strong and not going to break again!
- Is it sprung floor or flat laid floor?
- How it was fixed down? Nailed, screwed or glued?
Once this has been determined the saying ‘measure twice, cut once’ was never more true!
Staining is the process of colouring the wood, the floor has to be sanded to a smooth finish and close to the grain as much as possible, leaving the floor clean and free of all grease.
- Solvents require one coat application and dry within around 3 hours
- Oils require 2 coats and dries within around 8/10 hours
- Lacquer (water based) require 2/3 coats and dries on average under an hour.
On every project we will have at least 2 members of the team. we have 6 site engineers who can be called upon to meet targets if a project needs to be completed ASAP. Generally though Floor sanding will only take a matter of a few days for room size between 10-50sqm
Or referred to as ‘filling gaps in floor’
Often this is done with a resin (our preferred product is Leccoll 7500). You mix some fine sawdust from the floor you are intending to fill with the resin and mix until a paste is made. You then simply screed across the floor and remove top surface. This adds a more finished feel to most parquet floors.
When you have a ‘straight lay’ floor, such as pine boards for example, the gaps are far too wide and have no sub-floor ie. concrete underneath, therefore the material will simply fall through over time! So a different tack is necessary, you need some bits of timber cut into slivers so that you can glue and knock them into gaps and saw and sand off! This is the best solution for straight lay floors.
However we had an example recently, where the client had already finished the floor but the gaps were too big. Naturally we didn’t want to cause disturbance to a clients already finished floor, because if you put timber in then obviously this needs to be sanded which you don’t want to do to a newly restored floor! So we tape up either side and put two coats of putty down and plane off with a blade. The putty was so thick it sat in place and dried hard,